North Carolina: I'd Love to Live Here

In my last blog, I was feeling a little low. But not anymore. My spirits have definitely lifted as I've had some opportunities to go down to the water's edge and see, hear, smell, and feel the magnificent beauty that nature has to offer. North Carolina is so beautiful!


Last Sunday afternoon, I drove back across the border to South Carolina to briefly visit an area where my Fletcher ancestors lived for a short time along the Great Pee Dee River near Cheraw, SC. (Around the years 1780 - 1785) First, I walked all over the historic downtown area to get a feel for the lay of the land.

I learned that the great jazz musician, Dizzy Gillespie's hometown was Cheraw, SC.


And Cheraw's very old St. David's Church Cemetery contains the graves of many sacred men who fought during the Revolutionary War, both American Patriots and foreign forces.



Scotch Highlanders came over to help in the cause for American freedom in 1780 and died fighting for us. On their headstone it reads: Here in this hallowed ground rests officers and men of the 71st Fraser Highlanders / Their names known only to God.


And here lies a Captain of the Continental Army, Philip Pledger. What a special cemetery to wander through and appreciate the ultimate sacrifice of our servicemen over the years.


I had to go down to the water's edge of the Great Pee Dee River and do some reflecting for a few minutes, so when I was done wandering around the cemetery, the river was conveniently located at the end of the street. My 5th great grandfather, Joseph L. Fletcher (b. 1762) owned 250 acres along the river very close to where I stood. He was the same 5th great grandfather that married Elizabeth McIntosh in the St. Phillip's Parish back in Charleston, where I was able to visit the church right around the corner from my parking space downtown.



From here, I drove just a few miles over to the Cheraw State Park, with beautiful Lake Juniper as its centerpiece. There are walking trails and kayaking opportunities, as well as a great playground for my grandchildren - if only they were there with me!


I sat on this comfortable swing for a while and talked to my daughter, Amber, on the phone.


There is a beautiful half mile of boardwalk leading to a small dam.



It was such a refreshing place to recharge and connect with nature on a Sunday afternoon. 



I've been very busy gathering genealogical information along my route each week. I find that most towns have a library with a room dedicated to genealogy. Some towns have a historical society or genealogical society with a larger collection. And while some of their books are available online, they have additional books and vertical files that are only available onsite. Thankfully, patrons are allowed to take pictures of whatever they need from their resources.

Some of the things I find look like this: (with family trees going way back)


And sometimes I find a family story that has been passed down, or even printed in a newspaper article. This one happens to be a story about my Delk ancestor who was a young boy when Indians attacked their home.

And this even shows where the cabin was located geographically at the time. It has since been moved to Oatman Island, near Savannah, GA.


(I found the above gems in the Johnston County North Carolina Heritage Center, located in downtown Smithfield, NC.)

After I spent a couple hours photographing all that they had to offer on my family lines, I got a sandwich across the street at the Gotham Deli (everything on their menu has a reference to Batman - not my kind of movie, but the food was great), and then went for a walk in the rain.

Smithfield, NC is a very historical place and I had no idea!



The Neuse River runs right through town. I went down by the river because my ancestor, Reverend Henry Easterling (7th great grandfather), was born at the mouth of the Neuse River. While this wasn't the "mouth" of the river, it was still part of the river. And that was good enough for me.



The rains have made for some very swollen rivers around here in the past week or so! Some are even at or above flood stage.


Next stop: Havelock, North Carolina, Home to the Cherry Point Marine Corps Base. I loved their poignant announcement --



I went over to New Bern, NC to visit their New Bern/Craven County Public Library and do some research. First of all, New Bern is gorgeous! I spent the entire day there, even after I got done with my work.


The waterfront area was spectacular that morning, with some misty areas off in the distance over the water. If every town in the world could have waterfront like this, I doubt anyone would be cranky. Ever.

I walked all over the historic downtown area, appreciating all the informative markers to teach me something awesome.

And for lunch, I chose well. 


Some places offer you chips and salsa while you wait for your food. Or un-shelled peanuts. Not here. They give you buttery croissants drizzled with honey.


My order consisted of: Grilled Romaine hearts with bacon, tomatoes and feta cheese, topped with Cajun seasoned shrimp and Caesar dressing. The soup was lobster and crab bisque. All of it was amazing.


And the ambiance was lovely as well. Too bad I didn't have anyone to share it with.


Again, more walking along the waterfront. I could literally do this for hours.


When I headed back over to Havelock that evening, I took myself to the movie theater and watched "Call of the Wild." It is worth your time. I loved it 100%. It was beautiful, thought-provoking, tender, exciting, and all things good.

Speaking of all things good . . . Scott has had some interesting things happen in the past week or so.

They had a huge sandstorm one night. When he called me on the video chat, he stood under the street lamp to show me all the sand blowing around.


I made him pause for a quick screenshot, even though he was in a hurry to get out of the mess.


On another day, he sent a photo of what they were eating for dinner at work: chicken and rice. But the culture there is different - they have a large platter and everyone eats from it together. Since eating rice with your hands is a bit challenging, he learned from watching the Saudis that squishing some chicken and rice into a ball helps. :)

Scott has also been saddened and disgusted at how much we lost from our stocks because of the Coronavirus. He's even had trouble sleeping a couple of nights. I don't understand how things can go from a contagious sickness to wanting to pull your  money out of your investments. How is that even a thing?

One day he was so sleepy that he talked to me all curled up in his bed. He said, "Why don't you come over here and snuggle me." I wish that I could. I wish that I could.


We have officially hit the halfway point for this year-long deployment. Thank goodness! It feels like a relief to be on the count-DOWN. We are hoping (and praying) that he will get home at the right time in July to accompany me from the East Coast back home to Idaho. Fingers crossed.

Next stop: Hertford, North Carolina

Just west of Hertford is a delightful and historic little town called Edenton. I wasn't planning on stopping there. But I'm glad I followed that whim. Pretty much all up and down the East Coast there are important and pivotal pieces to our history in the U.S, including Edenton. I love it all.

Even these geese on the waterfront. Click for a short video:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/smqX1tcaFgY6SPNc6





I'm not sure what type of flower this is, but they were sprinkled everywhere!! It was really beautiful.



(I wish that when I want to include a panoramic picture it wouldn't make it so tiny. But you can click on the photo to get a better look.)


When I arrived at my AirBnb in Hertford, I instantly felt like it was my home away from home. I had so much in common with my host, Kimberley. And everything was just so wonderful there. The house was so cheery - including everyone's personality.


My bedroom door opened up onto a back porch where the clean, fresh air could flow in and throughout.

And I know it's hard to see - but behind that white house in the background is the Perquimans River that flows in from the Albemarle Sound. How is it that water can be so soothing and healing? It calms the soul and releases any and all stress. What a gift. I really enjoyed staying here. I think it's my favorite place in all of my travels so far. I can't wait to come back someday in better weather so I can go kayaking.

I especially loved Kimberley's children. They are so thoughtful and well-rounded, confident and intelligent. They also have a great sense of humor. This was on the fridge. (I couldn't resist.)


Thursday I drove over to Elizabeth City, NC to do some more research at the Family Research Society of Northeastern North Carolina. I found some good information for sure. I have years' worth of info to go through at some point. I'm going so fast from place to place that I just don't have the capacity to do it all right now.

Afterwards, I had to go for a walk. And what better place than along the waterfront once again.




On my journey throughout the South, I've been learning and digesting a lot of what happened here during the slavery era. I even watched a movie about Harriet Tubman and how she escaped first (and all alone at the time), only to go back repeatedly for others in her family and community. So when I saw this sign on the docks, I felt so proud of all those people who risked their own lives in order to help slaves on their way to freedom. I wish I had been there to help, too.


Heading north on Friday, I left the great state of North Carolina and entered Virginia. I had to make one little stop along the way first, before crossing the border. Don't let the name fool you.






Yes, it's a giant swamp. But it's surprisingly and ruggedly handsome. The Dismal Swamp Canal allows for large ships to travel back and forth, and there are hiking/biking trails along its banks.

Click here for a short video I took on the boardwalk:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NEMDV5qQaq4DtyAj6

The most interesting fun facts I learned about the Great Dismal Swamp:

  • George Washington came here to help survey the area for tactical purposes during the Revolutionary War. 
  • Runaway slaves would come here to get lost on purpose, sometimes living deep within for months as they worked to secure their freedom. I can't even imagine what they went through.
Moving on to a special place . . . for lovers . . . hubba hubba


I drove across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel out to the Eastern Shore of Virginia. The road was a mixture of 23 miles of bridge for a while, then a 1 mile tunnel, then bridge for a while, then a 1 mile tunnel, more bridge, and then finally some land. What an engineering masterpiece! The tunnel segments allow for ship movement through the Chesapeake Bay without a need for a giant drawbridge. It cost me $14 just to get out to the peninsula. And I have to pay another $14 to get back to the mainland. Holy Cow.

The very first thing I did on the peninsula was to hustle over to the Eastern Shore of Virginia Historical Society before they closed for the weekend. I was able to find some very helpful maps and information on my Fletcher family that lived here in the 1600's and 1700's. 


This was definitely the fanciest place I've ever conducted family history research! It also happens to be a museum. They set me up in this room with all the books they had pulled for me ahead of my arrival.


This map was particularly valuable to me, since it showed a specific location where my ancestor, William Fletcher (7th great grandfather), lived. Someone had even taken the time to make notes and highlight areas of importance.



So this morning, I took it one step further. I compared the above map with Google maps and a satellite view, trying to pinpoint a road to get me there. I knew the property was along Nandua Creek. This was so helpful! I saw 3 potential roads leading to the creek.


I stopped at the Pungoteague Post Office first, to mail a postcard to my mother. :) While there, I asked the lady behind the counter if she knew the people down the road and if they'd mind if I came out on their property to take some pictures. She referred me over to the market across the street to ask, since she was relatively new to the area. So I went across the street and spoke with the owner, asking him the same question. He said, "Well, I doubt anyone would mind if you go poking around their property. But if anyone gives you a hard time, just tell them you talked to Billy and you should be fine." Okie dokie! ha ha


I chose to go down the 3rd street past the post office, since it looked the most promising in its proximity to Nandua Creek. I drove down the 1/4 mile lane and knocked repeatedly on the door of the house there. No answer. So off I went across their field and over to the creek.

(View across the field before turning onto the lane)


Behind the house and at the edge of their field, looking toward Nandua Creek


They built a short boardwalk leading out to the creek


Panoramic view from the boardwalk


Panoramic view looking back toward the field and the house from the boardwalk


It felt AMAZING to stand there. I kept praying the entire time, hoping to feel something when I got there. And I did!!, I felt joy. I felt excitement. I felt validation. I felt connected. I knew that William Fletcher was pleased that I would go to so much trouble just to connect with him, to stand where he inevitably once stood so many years ago. And THAT, my friends, is why I do family history. :)

With a huge smile on my face, I had one more amazing adventure to secure for the day. Chincoteague Island and Assateague Island, where wild ponies roam. Legend says that there was a Spanish shipwreck a long time ago (200-300 years ago), off the coast of the Eastern Shore of Virginia. Horses on board allegedly swam to the nearest island when their ship went down, and have lived there, self-perpetuating ever since. I will happily believe such a dreamy legend! And I was on a mission to see some wild ponies with my own eyes today.


After discussing trail options at the visitor center, I chose to embark on the Woodland Trail, since it sounded the most promising.


The loop is only 1.6 miles total, paved the entire way, except for the short boardwalk leading out to the viewing station. It overlooks a large marshy span, and horses are often seen here.


But not today. Nothing. Nada. (Travel tip: bring binoculars)


I was disappointed, but I wanted to go back to where I thought I had seen some horses from the main road earlier. That ended up being a good choice.




There was a group of 6 horses in the same area I remembered, only this time they were much closer. What a grand experience! I stayed here for over 30 minutes, alternating getting out of the car to take pictures, and then when I was about to get frostbite, I'd watch them from the warmth of my car. (It was 39 degrees with a stiff 25 mph wind.) I felt so full of gratitude for being able to see wild ponies in their habitat. I left feeling very content and fulfilled for the day.


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