Bassano del Grappa, Human Chess, and a New Baby
We have a new baby in the family!! She is the sweetest, most precious little one, and I love her so much. Her name is Maisie Jean and she was born on September 5th in Minneapolis, Minnesota, weighing in at 7 lbs. 10 oz. and 19 inches long. She is Grandbaby #6 for us. :)
They drove the 10 minutes to the university hospital and she was checked into a room right away. This was roughly 7:15 a.m. While the staff started filling up the tub for a potential water birth, Hannah was already dilated to 8 cm, and things were progressing quickly. They didn't even have a chance for the water birth, because at 8:00 a.m., and after only 4 pushes, Maisie was born!!
Hannah is so amazing. I spoke to her recently, after she'd had a week to recover, and I asked her how she was feeling after the delivery. She said she feels great! She said the labor and delivery were about as picture perfect as it could get, and she was feeling so grateful. She doesn't get morning sickness either. Wow. She was made to be a momma!!
Below: Maisie in her bassinet, Hannah recovering in bed, and Jack eating a snack, just hanging out.
Jake and Hannah are so good at giving their babies regular "tummy time" where they can work on getting a strong neck right away. Even if Maisie struggles a little bit, and gets a little frustrated, they speak soothingly to her and encourage her for just a little bit longer before they scoop her up and give her a break and some snuggles. They are so patient and intuitive about their parenting. They seem to understand that a carefully planned and purposeful struggle can bring important learning and growth. What a metaphor for life . . .
Video of Jack learning about his new little sister: (28 seconds)
Video of Jack holding Maisie for the first time: (32 seconds)
They are adjusting well as a family of four and everyone seems happy and content. Maisie sleeps for 3 hours at a time through the night, mainly because of a technique that Jake and Hannah discovered. Maisie is always trying to suck on/eat/slurp her fists, which tends to disrupt her sleep. But if they tuck her in efficiently, making her comfortably snug inside her swaddle, then her hands are at rest all tucked in at her sides and she isn't distracting herself. They've had to try a couple different techniques with the swaddling, because sometimes she was able to wriggle out and then, once her hands were free, she would wake up and want to use them as a binky, which would subsequently lead to frustrations.
We are just so thrilled that Maisie is here, that her family is doing so well, and that they are thriving. I'm super baby-hungry right now, though, and I can hardly wait for this fall to pass quickly so that I can get over to Minneapolis and hold her in my arms. In the meantime, we are relying on video chats through WhatsApp, which isn't a perfect substitute . . . but 'twill have to be sufficient anyway.
More adventures to share . . .
As I mentioned earlier, we were in Bassano del Grappa on Thursday, September 5th. We had originally planned to visit the Vicenza Farmers Market that morning, but there was quite a lot of rain, and we didn't even know if the vendors would be setting up their booths in that kind of weather. So, instead, we had a nice lazy morning and then closer to lunch time, we drove over to Nove first, and then on to Bassano del Grappa. In Nove, we visited the pewter shop and then the ceramics shop, buying a few little things at each place.
I had read on Dr. Peter Matthews' website recently that there is a house in Bassano del Grappa that was most likely the home of the Bassano Family, from whom I descend. (Click the photos below to read a few lines from his website re: the house.)
For lunch, we ate at a small bar/restaurant on the west side of the Ponte Vecchio Bridge, called Birreria Lowen. Hardly anyone was open at 2:00 pm on a weekday, but this place was. I ordered a really delicious bruschetta pizza with grilled vegetables, spicy salami (basically pepperoni), and a couple different types of cheeses. I would 100% eat there again. Also, this is where I got the news that Maisie was born.
On the right (in the photo below) is what used to be a little church called Chiesetta dell'Angelo. (Now it is more of a museum and a cultural event center for musical concerts, etc.) The Bassano house is directly to the left of the church (next door). To clarify, if you're looking directly AT the church, it's the darker terra cotta building on the left. I just discovered on the internet that the Dal Ponte family (also known as the Bassano family) contributed significantly to the artwork on the inside of this little church, which was originally built in 1384.
One of the two main entry doors next to the street in front, there to close off the arched entrance if needed.
It was so wonderful to be able to share a new piece of our Bassano history with another family member. I had shared a couple of things with Amber and her daughters, Abby and Gwen, last October, but I didn't know about this house at that time. I wish that I had known, because they would have loved to see it in person, too.
As soon as we got home, Jacob called to let us see Maisie as they held her in the hospital room. She was so sweet, and I was grateful that I could talk to her and tell her how happy I was that she was here, and how much I love her. XOXO
On our way back to the car, Franca explained a couple more things while they stood in one of the rows of grapes, and I took one last photo of them. They sure had a good time!
Later that evening, we ALL went to a very special performance that only takes place every 2 years: a Human Chess Tournament in Marostica (close to Nove, Bassano del Grappa, and Breganze).
Video of a portion of the preface: (1 minute, 11 seconds)
The story goes like this: (as per the English translation on our printed program)
The year of the Lord 1454. In the darkness of the night, the Master of the Field, Zuan del Lovo rides across the square on the back of his steed. The shadow seems to spring out from the darkness of time. He stops in front of the Castle and signals with the torch.
Video of the entry of the Master of the Field on horseback: (40 seconds)
Promptly, the pedestrian door moves away and the banner carrier comes out, proudly waving the banner of San Marco. It is the daily ceremony of ownership of the territory. Meanwhile, the soldiers are placed beyond the battlements. The commands of the Captain of the Castle come thundering. Hearing the order, "Fogo!" Fire, two flaming darts start from the bastions, aimed at hitting the basalt edges of the large chessboard which is set on fire.
Video of the fiery arrow that lights up the chess game square: (22 seconds)
When the flames go out, it is now dawn. The square suddenly comes alive. In fact, it's market day. Dealers arrive pushing their carts, and immediately crowds flock among the merchandise stalls; peasants, noblewomen and curious gentlemen.
Some gypsies and friars begging also walk here and there with their donkeys. Here come the comedians and acrobats of the "Compagnia dei Comici", who in no time at all set up their own stage. The Arlecchino and Columbina masks immediately entertain the public.
Video of the royal procession entering on horseback: (14 seconds)
Video of the townspeople and jesters entering the square for the morning market: (8 seconds)
Swords by their sides, some young aristocrats also proceed in the crowd. We can notice on one side, the Vallonara family in a green brocade doublet, led by Vieri, a knight of the Order of Rhodes. On the other side, the Angaranos are advancing in a red overcoat. They are headed by Rinaldo, known as "Spadaforte".
Any little reason is good enough to ignite the two factions and here is the spark! Lionora, the daughter of Chief Magistrate Taddeo Parisio, arrives in a sedan chair, escorted by the nurse Prudenzia.
Video of Lionora's grand entrance: (16 seconds)
Everyone stops. It is said that the girl is as beautiful as a "musk rose", but very few have seen her face.
The young woman proceeds with the curtains drawn back and it takes just a moment for Vieri and Rinaldo to see her and become bewitched by her beauty. A quarrel breaks out between the two rivals, who draw their swords and begin to fight. The begging friars intervene instantly and Arlecchino, with his funny jokes, invites the musicians to soften the atmosphere. Immediately some commoners improvise a dance to the playful rhythm of tambourines and rattles, followed by the "Zanni" clowns.
Video of some of the dancing in the square to "lighten the mood": (10 seconds)
Suddenly, we can all hear the anguished toll of the civic bell and all gaiety is extinguished. Even the morning light seems to fade away in the face of the tragedy that is looming upon the scene.
There is a rumor among the local people that Vieri and Rinaldo intend to fight in a mortal duel with a "pointed and sharp weapon", in a few words - a sword, and thus ensure the privilege of marrying Lionora. Blood will run in the town.
In a flash, the retailers put away the goods and leave the square. Even the comedians hurry up to dismantle their stage and seek escape.
Meanwhile, the trumpets play and the drummers come out of the castle in full formation, followed by the flag bearer with the banner of Venice, and the delegate of the "borghi" with the banner of Marostica.
Video of the drummers coming out of the castle: (18 seconds)
The Master of the Field, Zuan del Lovo also appears on the scene with his knights riding fiery steeds. Here comes the Chief Herald, who reveals that by the will of the Magistrate Parisio, the duel will be a bloodless challenge in the form of a game of chess.
Video of the Master of the Field coming out with his knights: (22 seconds)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/64bBcME4APPifmad8
Preceded by the Master of Ceremonies, the Venetian court then arrives in the square. The noble Magistrate Taddeo Parisio has on his side both his beautiful daughter, Lionora, and his haughty sister, Oldrada, the young woman who will marry the loser of the challenge. Following behind them, we can admire a sumptuous parade with: the nurse Prudenzia, the handmaids, the pages, the clerics, a crowd of noble courtiers and the grotesque figure of the jester.
Video of Magistrate Parisio entering with his daughter and his sister and their entourage: (33 seconds)
From the stage podium, Messer Lunardo da Fiatolongo, the court secretary and historian, recalls the ancient Veronese edict issued following the tragic story of the Montagues and the Capulets. He therefore forbids challengers to compete for Lionora's "beautiful soul" with a duel to the death. Thus he proclaims that the challenge lies in the noble game of chess with large and living pieces. Finally, he arranges for both the aristocracy and the people to attend the game, and for a military demonstration, lights, and merry dances. The event will be run again after 500 years to the greater honour and glory of Marostica and the Serenissima.
In unison, all those present stand up and pay Venice the customary homage to the cry of "San Marco and the Lion, you with us and we with you always."
As the historian takes his place among the court dignitaries, the civic bell returns to strike its eerie note.
Soon after, we can hear the roar of the cadenced steps of the "zente d'armi", the armed men of the castle, who enter the square for their demonstration. The first ones to appear are archers and crossbowmen, then it is the turn of the veterans, the halberdiers, and the "Schiavoni" infantrymen, who perform impeccably by singing the "cantalonga".
Video of the infantrymen singing their song: (33 seconds)
The chief herald regains the podium and calls the challengers to take position for the game. Vieri enters, escorted by his father, Cante da Vallonara, plus a large group of squires, ladies, bridesmaids and pages. On the other side, Rinaldo advances, accompanied by his father, Rambaldo d'Angarano and a procession of knights, gentlemen, ladies and maids.
The two factions bow to each other and reach their stands. The chief herald then invites the embassies of the host towns to introduce themselves and take their seats. Venice, Verona, Este, Montagnana, Padua, and Vicenza parade themselves, along with the delegation of the city of Florence.
Video of the entrance of the embassy of Vicenza (!!): (41 seconds)
The Chief Herald then calls the people in charge of the "Borghi" of Marostica. Soon after, those districts also parade one after the other. (Borghi are neighborhoods, I think)
The representatives of the three major guilds also bow to the Magistrate: the guild of straw art, the guild of ceramics, and the guild of cherry growing, with pretty girls carrying baskets full of the red fruits.
Next there are several "demonstrations" - the flag bearers of the various militias, drummers and trumpeters, etc.
Video of the flag bearers entering the square: (25 seconds)
Video of a portion of the flag bearers' performance: (43 seconds)
Video of another short section of their performance: (21 seconds)
In the end, the Minor Herald gets on the podium to dictate the terms of the match between Vieri and Rinaldo. He explains that deciding who the first move will go to, will be placed in the gentle hands of Lionora. The referee of the dispute will be Taddeo Parisio himself.
Then, he orders those present not to dare to bother the players or to side with one or the other, under penalty of whipping on the "postergal", that is - the backside.
At this point, in an unreal silence, the Master of the Field, Zuan del Lovo returns to the competition and on the back of his steed throws the gauntlet at the feet of Taddeo Parisio. The gesture is ostentatious and made more dramatic by the pressing toll of the civic bell.
A page retrieves the glove and the magistrate shows it to everyone. Darkness falls on the square. It's time for the challenge.
A powerful symphony and suddenly the door of the castle opens wide: in the opalescent light, the 32 living pieces emerge. They are very tall and proud; almost alien to the world. They proceed all together up to the box seat of the Magistrate, praising Venice to the cry of "Lion!" and then they take up their places on their allocated squares. Whilst the big bell strikes once more. Now the view is breathtaking.
Video of the chess pieces entering the square: (22 seconds)
With a dull rumble, the ram's chariot arrives in the square where the contest will take place, while a captain carries the precious chessboard.
Video of the pieces taking their places on the chess board and the chariot approaching the Magistrate:
(1 minute, 14 seconds)
The Herald introduces the request for the wedding from the fathers of both the challengers. This is the formal act that begins the dispute.
Madonna Prudenzia, who is Parisio's sister-in-law and faithful nurse of the beautiful Lionora, is very anxious. She, too, secretly dreams of such a tournament for her own hand, but at this moment in time she only cares about the fate of her ward.
Meanwhile, Vieri and Rinaldo, the two rivals, get on the ram's chariot assisted by some helpers. Everyone waits for a gesture from the Magistrate to start the challenge.
Taddeo Parisio descends on the giant chessboard to revere the noble guests present at the battle of love. He senses that his daughter's heart beats for one of the contenders, but he doesn't know which one. It will therefore be love itself to guide the gaming skills of the opponents.
The Heralds prepare to commentate on the chess moves. The players stare at each other in the eyes, unmoved. Soon, they begin. Thus begins the most epic, chivalrous duel in history. Move after move, the game develops according to the ancient rules of chess. The captured pawns overturn the banners and leave the board; the others give life to exceptional chess combinations.
Video of some of the suspenseful chess moves during the game: (1 minute, 23 seconds)
Video of the white queen making yet another intimidating move: (39 seconds) *We thought at this point that White was about to win. But alas, they did not.
In the end, for one of the two players, the circle closes and it is "Checkmate!"
The big town bell fills the air with its deep toll. The contender who won is Vieri da Vallonara. The young man appears to be happy, but the loser Rinaldo is also satisfied. Both fought with courage and loyalty and are now awaiting their prize.
Taddeo Parisio rises from his seat and invites Lionora and Oldrada to place their hands in his so he can give them to the winner and the loser. The faces of the girls betray fear and hope for the future.
Video of Parisio walking forward with his daughter and his sister: (11 seconds)
The moment is magical. Taddeo Parisio raises the blade of the sword offered to him by a commander and places it flat on the shoulders of the newlyweds, who bow their heads. The weddings are blessed and sealed forever. All tension has now disappeared. The four young people appear genuinely happy, while the great bells of the town chime in celebration. It is a riot of exultation and happiness that seem to have no end.
Video of Lionora and Vieri's marriage: (35 seconds)
Video of Lionora and Vieri marching forward as the bell announces their wedding: (8 seconds)
Unexpectedly, the girlfriends of the noble brides gaily invade the square and start dancing. Even the flag-wavers of Figline Valdarno take to the field to celebrate with virile impetuosity and it all becomes a riot of twirls and virtuosity.
Video of the girlfriends of the noble brides dancing: (28 seconds)
No one has the time to catch a breath before the riders are already moving onto the giant chessboard for the last carousel. The proud battle steeds proceed in an orderly fashion. From their hooves, sparks appear!
The doors of the Castle open wide again to let all the protagonists of the story back out, onto the square. One after the other, more than 600 people who took part in the show swarm out, solemn and festive. They go around the game arena, greeting, throwing kisses, and finally they arrange themselves on the large chessboard.
It is an impressive parade, but even more is the gathering in the square: a magnificent sight!
Video of the various groups majestically re-entering the square: (1 minute, 29 seconds)
Video of the last of the 600 participants joining the throng (I love the drummers): (31 seconds)
Then suddenly, a group of archers advances toward the castle and releases some incendiary arrows. Immediately, tongues of fire flare up. A thick, reddish cloud of smoke rises, and suddenly, a display of fire comes out of the battlements, like a sort of coronet of sparks. In a flash, the flame explodes in a cascade of sparks that bounce down 20 meters below onto the wooden drawbridge and spill out into the moat. While the fire dies away, the applause of the audience is ignited. Marostica's Chess Game is over!
Video of the archers launching their flaming arrows toward the castle: (24 seconds)
**Note: the last 10 seconds or so of this video might be a little boring . . . I wasn't sure if more was about to explode to ooh/aah the crowd, so I kept the camera rolling. But nothing actually happened, lol.
And that's THE END. Finito.
The whole performance took about 2.5 hours from start to finish. It was captivating and fun, although a little bit long. Also, if I had had a more comfortable seat, I could have stayed a tad longer . . .
It was a once in a lifetime experience and one I will never forget. I loved all the pomp and circumstance, the flag bearers, and the drummers. The actual chess game was extremely suspenseful and exciting. And we enjoyed watching the pieces go down, one at a time.
That's all for this blog post. More to come next week, including: a trip to the Dolomites, a cave tour, and a day at the beach in Chioggia. Eventually, I'll get to our trip to Croatia and Slovenia, along with a subsequent and incredible day in Venice. Peace out.
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