Company Round Two: Verona, Murano, & A Cheese Tour
Right after the Crofts left to go back home to Idaho, my younger sister Melanie and her husband Mike arrived in Venice the very next day.
L to R: Scott, Me, Melanie, and Mike
Video of their arrival and the moment they saw us in the airport: (10 seconds)
We all worked in the kitchen together to build our dinner, each person chopping or stirring something.
We sauteed some chicken cutlets wrapped up in prosciutto and then dredged in flour. We made a balsamic glaze of sorts in the pan, with some balsamic vinegar and chicken broth that cooked down and thickened up once we put the chicken cutlets back in. They were served with cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, and chunks of fresh mozzarella cheese. Cooked carrots were served on the side, along with a nice dipping bread to mop up whatever olive oil/vinegar/spice concoction you created on a little side plate.
Our downstairs neighbor, Bruno, asked us if we wouldn't mind watering his lemon tree and several flowering plants around our shared property while he would be gone on a 10-day trip. Every evening we faithfully fulfilled this obligation, and Bruno just returned home safely on Tuesday evening.
It was nice to free up that space in my brain for other things and just let him take the lead on the lesson prep. He did a great job as always. His new thing is to assign several classmembers with a quote from whatever general conference talk that is the basis for the lesson. He asks them to find the quote within the talk (using their smartphones), get some context for the quote, and then offer their insights on the quote. Everyone seem to really enjoy it, and they take it to heart. It gets more people involved than the usual 3 or 4 people, and it's so nice to hear from some other class members that usually stay quiet.
After church and a small afternoon rest period, we drove to Verona - about 45 minutes west. Our first stop was the Arena di Verona, a Colosseum that was built BEFORE the one in Rome and is more intact, too. Since Scott and I have seen the inside before, we opted to find a patch of shade and just wait for Mike and Melanie outside. It was quite toasty . . .
Next, we walked about 20 minutes to get to the Giusti Gardens. We crossed the River Adige (pronounced AH-dee-jay), the second longest river in Italy.
We walked up a long set of stairs to see what was up above . . . (3 seconds)
Even though it was very hot and humid, I'm so glad we made the trek! We had sweeping views of Verona from a great vantage point. (Can you tell how red-faced and sweaty I was, ha ha)
I saw Mike and Melanie on the path below, so I called her phone so I could direct her gaze up to where we were. She took a photo of us - see if you can zoom in and find us . . .
The trail zig-zagged through forested blooms and eventually led us back down to the main level . . .
Our next stop was in Lazise, a cute little town on the shores of Lake Garda. Melanie told me afterwards that I should bring ALL our guests here because it was THAT cute. :)
We found a restaurant next to the water for dinner. Melanie and I ended up ordering the same pizza - the Capricciosa. I split mine with Scott because I wasn't that hungry and I wanted to save a little room for gelato, ha ha.
I often order the Capricciosa throughout Italy because it has more vegetables on it than most varieties. While it's a bit lighter and is completely different from my favorite supreme pizza at the Round Table in Ukiah, CA, I am always looking for something that attempts to rival my childhood favorite. The Capricciosa has ham, olives, mushrooms, and artichokes on it.
The location of the old home is next to Porta Dieda, an historic entry point into the city. Passing through the arched "doorway", we turned left and then the house is on the next street over. While we don't have 100% proof that this was the Bassano home, there is a lot of circumstantial evidence that it was. Plus I get feelings when I stand there, both in front of the house and also inside the long hallway that leads to the inner courtyard. So that's all the proof I need. :)
There is an important clue in the next photo regarding the origin of the Dal Ponte Family that I had not noticed before until now . . .
I think I've taken a photo of this same sign before on a separate visit to the museum in Bassano, but I just hadn't picked up on the clue before. It says that the Dal Ponte family came from the Asiago area before settling in Bassano del Grappa. I looked on a map to see where Gallio is in relation to Asiago, and they are neighboring communities.
This was confusing to me because it doesn't jive with the background locations of the Bassano family, from which we descend. I turned to AI for a quick answer and basically it confirmed my new worry that the two families are likely not related at all. The Dal Pontes became known as "Bassano" simply because they lived there, not because they are related to the Bassanos. There is no known link, per two separate and very reliable sources.
This puts my years-long quest to find a link between the two families to rest, sadly. I'm sure they knew each other, though. They lived in Bassano del Grappa during overlapping years, and they both dabbled in artistic ventures: music and art. Surely they would have known each other and moved around in some of the same circles.
I'm not sad about the news, but I am disappointed a little bit. I've been so excited each time I've seen a painting by Jacopo dal Ponte because I was sure he was a distant cousin of mine. But really, what it all boils down to is that we are ALL cousins of varying degrees, ha ha. We are all part of God's Great Big Eternal Family, so really, we are related - all of us. :)
And Jacopo dal Ponte does have some magnificent paintings, so there's nothing really to be sad about. He was talented and he shared his talent with the world. We should all be grateful for him and for all the gifts of art that he contributed in his lifetime.
But I will hereby end my quest to find a specific link between the Dal Ponte and Bassano families.
That being said, our next stop was actually ASIAGO . . . we had a very interesting cheesemaking tour to take part in at the Caseficio Pennar. (Caseficio is pronounced like: Koz-eh-FEECH-ee-o)
We even got to wear some very stylish hairnet-style booties over our shoes during the tour!
(3 minutes) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Fqo4j-TWSc
The cows graze high up in the mountains during the summer months, eating only local grasses and flowers. In the winter months, they stay indoors because of the cold (and snow) and they only eat locally produced hay. In the summer, their milk production has an off-white or cream color to it. But in the winter, their milk is very white. Because of the seasonal changes in their diet and the subsequent color of their milk, it also changes the flavor and color of the cheese, too.
This is a mold for making mozzarella cheese balls . . .
Copper vats are where the milk gets churned into cheese daily . . .
Only one person is in charge of the cheese stirring per shift. This is the tool that is used.
Video here: (7 seconds)
Video of where the milk sits overnight: (10 seconds) Maybe this is where she told us there are 50,000 liters in each of these giant tubs . . . I can't remember all the details now . . .
Video of just a couple of the rows from floor to ceiling: (7 seconds)
What a great day! It was an epic drive up and down the mountain to get to and from Asiago . . . We drove up a different way than how we got home later, since we went up from Bassano originally. There were less hairpin turns going up the first way than the 17 that we did on the way home, ha ha. The fun thing about seeing the signs that say Tornante 17, Tornante 16, etc. is that you know exactly how many there are by the time you reach the bottom. Going up . . . you just have to wait and wonder.
I remember wanting to go to bed earlier that night because I was so tired. I think it was starting to hit me from all the many days in a row of driving, seeing, playing, hosting, etc. PLUS the heat. But I did really enjoy sharing Bassano with my sister and also sharing my very first cheese tour with her, too.
Video of Melanie taking a walk behind our house with a gorgeous sunset: (5 seconds)
Mike and I were on the balcony chatting when we saw her walking by. Hey - fancy meeting you here!!
On the last full day with Mike and Melanie, we rode the train out to Venice and then island hopped over to Murano. We tried to get there as early in the morning as possible, but it was already 9:00 a.m. and hot by the time we walked out of the Santa Lucia train station to behold the Grand Canal.
Per my suggestion, we walked a few minutes north so that they could see the Jewish Quarter of Venice, which was right on the way to catching a ferry to Murano.
We passed by a small open fish market with all sorts of fish for sale, big and small. From a large swordfish head all the way down to a bucket full of tiny snails.
Video as we crossed one of the canal bridges near the Jewish Quarter: (9 seconds)
There was a lot of construction going on in the Jewish Quarter, including the Ghetto, which meant a lot of dust had settled on top of the tripping stones, which are normally an elegant bronze and very visible. I used my shoe to try to brush some of the dirt off so she could read it better, but it didn't really do much.
He took the time to notice us from inside the building where he was, and then discerned that we probably wanted to read the names on the stones, because they mattered to us. He must have seen us trying to take some photos and decided that we needed something better. What an incredible gesture of kindness!
We accidentally took the water bus that heads in the opposite direction, but it was breezy and felt refreshing to be on a moving boat. We noticed our mistake after about 3-4 stops, so we got off and waited for the right one heading in the other direction. We passed by the Ospedale of Venice (Hospital) and I saw their ER for the first time. There are little ambulance boats and an ER boat dock that you can see in the photo below.
I snuck a very fancy video of Melanie in the side mirror of the water bus while we bounced along toward the Cimitero of San Michele stop: (10 seconds)
We got off at the Murano Colonna stop, which was next after the cemetery. After applying a good layer of sunscreen in the shade, we stepped out into the hot sun and started a slow little meander down the first alleyway street of Murano.
Very quickly, we noted that there are shops after shops after shops of items for sale that were made from glass. Murano is world-renowned for its glassmaking techniques, the art of which has been passed down for many generations. In one of the shops we stepped inside (5% curiosity + 95% need for A/C), a man approached us and offered to take us back to watch a glassmaking demonstration. Yes, of course! Si!!
Glassmaking used to primarily be in Venice, but after too many fires and the hazards it created, all production was moved out to the island of Murano in 1291.
Here is a link to a great article about the history of glass in Murano - it's a short and very easy read.
If we thought it was toasty outside, then we were clearly weak and pathetic. These guys that work in the hot furnace area for hours on end are the real heroes.
Video of the artist adding feet to the bull that he's making: (15 seconds)
Video of the artist using a blowtorch to heat the bull's feet: (8 seconds)
The blowtorch allows for direct and controlled heating of the glass, whereas the furnace heats the entire piece.
Video of the artist clipping the feet before it goes back into the fiery furnace: (7 seconds)
For this artist to be doing what he was doing right there, he had to have a solid 25 years of experience first. Young boys usually begin their training around the age of 12, but they are considered a Master when they have completed 25 years of work experience.
Well, here's the few seconds of video that I got before I was scolded: (10 seconds)
The pieces of art in that upper room were SO PRICY. I asked him about one piece - and it was like 3900 euros. A few minutes later, I asked him how much for a beautifully crafted glass chessboard and figurine set that was sitting on a little table . . . and he told me 2300 euros. Cough cough . . . No thanks. He knew that I lived nearby and could potentially carry them home instead of having them shipped, so he offered me 2,000 euros as a bargain. Thank you, but no thank you.
We made our way downstairs to where things are significantly cheaper, and that's where I found a pretty little bedside clock to take home with me. I had seen these in other places around Venice before, but I thought it would be nice to purchase one from its original source. It was roughly $30. Much more manageable. :)
Melanie had mentioned that she also wanted to see the Basilica dei Santa Maria e Donato, so we made our way over, which took about 15 minutes on foot. I was so hot and sweaty, it was hard to take the time to absorb anything beautiful as we shuffled along in the heat. But Murano really is a beautiful place.
The flooring was especially beautiful, and it reminded me of the Doge Palace and Basilica at St. Mark's Square in Venice, which was built around the same time period.
Here is an article explaining the history of the church, with plenty of photos:
The gold tile mosaic of Mary above the altar reminded me both of the Basilica in Venice and also of the churches down in Ravenna, Italy - a place that's considered to be the mosaic capital of the world. Gold tile mosaics are present in both places. I wonder if it was a style choice from the period in which it was created, or if it was more of a signature style from a particular artist . . .
This old pipe organ was built by Gian Giacomo Antegnati in 1536, making it roughly 489 years old by now.
These next 3 photos are extremely interesting and they explain the background to the Basilica and also the symbolism found within the mosaic tile flooring and other areas, too. (click photos to enlarge)
All in all, it was a very interesting Basilica with rich symbolism everywhere. I enjoyed spending some time there before stepping back out into the heat again.
We made our way to a place that had been recommended to us as a restaurant that serves the traditional moeche crab that is unique to Murano. I was super interested in trying some! But as it turned out, the moeche crab wasn't in season right then . . . darn it. But we were the first lunch customers of the day and the restaurant was so quiet, and AIR-CONDITIONED. We had been seated all the way in the back where it was a little darker and more peaceful away from the busyness of life outside the main door at the front, so we decided to stay and just order something off the menu anyway because we were already so comfortable and ready to rest for a while.
I found something called spidercrab salad on the appetizer section of the menu and I was 100% down to try it. The crab was very delicate and sweet, and it contrasted well with the avocado and lime-spritzed chopped salad. I enjoyed every single bite.
After a restful hour in the restaurant and with happy tummies, we set off to make our way back home to Vicenza.
Murano can be summed up in one word: shopping. While Venice offers museums, schools, studios, gardens, restaurants, and many more categories of exploration, Murano was mostly just glass shops and/or studios to make their world-famous glass. Yes, I'm sure there are few other things mixed in, like restaurants, and a museum, but for the most part, it's just glass shop after glass shop for dayyyyys . . .
These little glass piggies were super cute though . . .
Video passing under a canal bridge: (13 seconds)
Video of some of the construction happening in Venice: (7 seconds)
Come ride the water bus with me! I took a longer video as we cruised back toward the train station:
(1 min, 18 seconds) https://photos.app.goo.gl/cx9REbuLP56yxdwr9
While Melanie took a little rest, I made us a little charcuterie platter to tide us over until dinner.
The next morning, I drove Melanie and Mike to the Venice Airport at 7:30 a.m. so they could catch a flight to Prague. Mike served as a missionary in Prague many years ago (roughly 1994-1996 I think) and was eager to reconnect with a place that has held a special place in his heart.
They had a lovely time there in Prague, soaking up the culture, the food, the sights, and even paying a visit to the Mission Home where Mike used to work so many years ago. They made it home in one piece and now they're adjusting little by little to the different time zone . . .
I'm so glad they could come and play with me in Italy! I especially loved that we found some new places to explore together. Sometimes I end up going to the same places on repeat, and while I don't mind this for a few of those places (like Chioggia), I don't want to get tired of the rest.
Melanie left us this "review" and I thought it was cute enough to frame so that all of our future guests will think we're awesome!!
On the day that they flew off to Prague, we had an especially hot day in Vicenza . . .
I've experienced 4 years of June in Italy as of this writing (2022, 2023, 2024, and 2025), and I've never seen it this hot before. I would say, "Good thing I'm headed back to Idaho for a month, where at least it cools off at night", but I don't have any air conditioning over there. I can hide comfortably in my house here for as many hours of the day as I want to, and I always have the A/C running nonstop. What a blessing!
In other news . . .
I finally got in to see the eye doctor!! Yay!! We had to drive to Verona for the opthalmologist that was recommended, but it turned out to be just 35 minutes of driving each way. The young doctor was very nice and also very efficient. We were out of there in maybe 30 minutes, and now I have a prescription for a new set of glasses.
Video of the pink sunset: (17 seconds)
Jack and Maisie are enjoying life in their new house in St. Paul. I had a video chat with Jake one day, and he let me watch Jack play and explore in the yard while we visited. We were coming back from a day out with the Crofts when this call took place, so that's why I'm wearing a seatbelt down in the bottom corner. Scott was driving, so I mostly fielded the call. :)
Hannah, Maisie, Jake, and silly Jack . . .
Amber shared the following in our family group chat: "I was chatting with [Grandpa John] at 9:30 after I put the girls to bed, when suddenly a paper airplane flew into the living room. It was a note that said, 'Grandpa John, you are nice and funny and I love your stories. Thank you for coming to visit us. Love, Abby.' " What a sweet thing for her to say!! XOXO
I got some details from my Dad on his visit to Michael's house up near Coeur d'Alene. Apparently it was time to harvest 22 chickens, and they had quite the setup including a scalding station to loosen the feathers, a plucking machine, and everything else to make the whole thing a success. Wow. What homesteaders they are!! And they have at least one herd of bees, with a honey-making operation that is very successful, too.
And lastly . . .
Waaaay back on June 13th - on our anniversary, I was able to attend a very special luncheon to honor my wonderful husband. Even though he's been retired now for a couple of months (from the military), his co-workers wanted to celebrate all of the contributions that he's made in the past 3 years. We met at a restaurant near Monte Berico, high on a hill that overlooks Vicenza.
He even turned to me and shared his appreciation for the support that I have given to Scott and how that allowed Scott to fulfill his responsibilities even better. He said something like, "Usually when someone is getting close to retirement, they can smell the finish line and they lose focus. And sometimes their spouse at home is even more eager for their soldier to be done. If the spouse is feeling antsy and impatient, this carries over into the workplace and into the delicate work that we need to be focused on. But with you and Scott, we could tell that he had 100% support from you at home, which allowed him to keep his head in the game right up until the very end."
He also added his admiration for our long-lasting marriage and the beautiful friendship that Scott and I have, saying that in this day and age it carries a great deal of weight in helping to make the world a happier place to be. I was surprised and caught off guard from all of the words of praise that he directed toward me and toward us, but I was also very grateful that he took the time to share all of his thoughts with everyone present at the luncheon.
Scott was presented with this large token of their appreciation: (which says)
CW4 Kenneth Harmon
Ken, your commitment to excellence and professionalism at SETAF-AF have been invaluable and benefited all of us. Your contributions played a significant role in driving operational success for both our organization and the fires community. We have all been influenced by your genuine friendship and positive impact.
Thank you, Ken, and wish you all the best in your future endeavors.
[And then they added their favorite quote that Scott always says at work]
"Good morning Gents, what's going on?" ~ Ken
Since Lt. Colonel "O" is from Nigeria, the quote he says most often around the workplace - and what ended up on his plaque was this:
"There's no better example of mis/disinformation than presenting Ghanian jollof (aka jambalaya) as real jollof."
Below are many of Scott's buddies from work. I'll keep their names confidential to protect their privacy, but Scott's closest buddy is Jason Rico, seated in the front row - far left in the plaid shirt. They do some amazing teamwork when it comes to computer stuff - two genius brains and the nicest personalities, too. Jason is a contractor like Scott is now, too.
Happy 4th of July!! We will be hiking in the Swiss Alps this weekend to celebrate. Yodelayheehoo!!!
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